[kydecoy]

Jimmer
Do you tow or haul a lot of weight?
Just asking to know how them spacers hold up?
Are the spacers ALu. or Steel?
Thanks

 

[jimmer]

Jimmer
Do you tow or haul a lot of weight?
Just asking to know how them spacers hold up?
Are the spacers ALu. or Steel?
Thanks

Tow abt 10k. Billet alum. Bolt on adapters not slide on spacers. Not worried about it. Keep the nuts on the adapters tight.

 

[jimmer]

Been busy with a fence project at the house...so not a lot of time on the truck. I have been working on the dash pad. A year or so ago I glassed over MOST of the pad...filling int he speaker holes and other cracks. Well...in the areas that I did NOT do...guess what...crack! dammit. Out came the various air tools, caulk, epoxy, and glassing goodies. Still need a skim coat of bondo and then finish sand smooth. Black is the WORST to make sure it looks smooth and level. Once smooth...time for a spray bomb can of truck bed liner... Here are pix. In the third to last pic you can see the Autometer angle rings I added to house the Boost and Pyro gauges.

Now if this does not work out...there is a guy on the 73-87 boards and 67-72 board that goes by the name of "stitch" that makes what I think is a good looking vinyl dash cover. Those pix are last. Not trying to free pimp his stuff...I do not have one of these...just have heard good things and am pointing it out for others as an option. BUT you have to repair your dash and make it smooth.

Dash cover by Stitch.

 

[kydecoy]

Thanks for the info Jimmer on the towing.

 

[ph450r]

Thanks for the info, those covers look nice I might have to check into them

 

[454cid]

That covered dash looks great....... similar to my 69 Buick. If it's not outrageously expensive get yours covered.

 

[jimmer]

It is like 160 for the cover...u install. I have custom gauge area...he says it" should" fit....humm.

 

[jimmer]

Well. been too damn busy on other projects BUT I did order the DIY4X shackle flip and switch. Here is a pic of the rear of the truck with 15 80lb bags of concrete.

I have also picked up some 'whining' sound in the tcase or the trans. need to check that out. The t-case I bet has over 200K on it with no rebuild. With Scotts plate full forward and our lack of air at 6800 feet elevation...I can smoke out an intersection if I lug it...but otherwise..so far I am tickled pink. It DOES need the GSK...runs out of fuel at about 2100 or so.

 

[JLTAIT]

Jimmer,
Truck turned out great!! I am in the middle of a similar project (2wd dually crew) and was wondering how well the fuel tanks/sending unit/pickup mods are working for you. I am planning something similar with mine. Any isssues with this setup? have you been able to switch tanks and run the tanks relatively low without issues. I know my VE pump will act up with any uncovering of the sump or return lines so I want to make sure this will work well as I move forward.
Thanks
JLT

 

[jimmer]

Jimmer,
Truck turned out great!! I am in the middle of a similar project (2wd dually crew) and was wondering how well the fuel tanks/sending unit/pickup mods are working for you. I am planning something similar with mine. Any isssues with this setup? have you been able to switch tanks and run the tanks relatively low without issues. I know my VE pump will act up with any uncovering of the sump or return lines so I want to make sure this will work well as I move forward.
Thanks
JLT

Have not had any issues...YET! LOL I have that pick-up tube real close to the bottom of the tank....

 

[jimmer]

The brown santa came yesterday...left me these goodies. Looks like it is time to breakout the torch/grinder/air hammer. Should help my saggy a$$ end!

 

[jimmer]

Have not posted in a bit...been too dang busy on other things... here we go with the DIY4X shackle flip. You can see the parts in the photos above.

Here is a shot of the 4 rivet heads ground off and then punched out with an air hammer.

Ahh...once the 4 are out of the way...you have 2 more to do from the underside that hold this bracket on...(seen hanging down)

Cleaned up frame section.

Here is an after pic of how the truck sets. All 4 corners of this truck sit at a different level...BUT the rear was raised 4 inches on each side.

Overall...not a bad project to do. I did replace the rear spring bushings with some Poly ones. This particular kit uses a regular bar type sChevye...not that crazy chevy style. Only thing I can recommend is to have a set of jack stands that are pretty tall...you will need them to get the truck high enough to get the springs attached again.

As for shocks...5125 Bilsteins.

YES...the axle is a bit forward. That can be corrected with a 'zero rate', or left alone and with some weight in the bed it will center itself out.

Driveline angles - this one is a bit tricky...I have a slight vibration at take off but none at road speed. Will probably need to get some shims and new u-bolts to fix it. That is another 100 dollar job! LOL

 

[jimmer]

I did not connect the front sway bar after the 4" spring swap...it did not line up properly. Truck was a bit 'wishy washy' in the corners...and then when I added the 37's...it cornered like a 72 Ford LTD. Now add my 8' slide in camper and it just did not feel right. I have a jeep run that I am heading to and wanted to be a bit 'safer' feeling...even if it was a 'my butt feels safer' feeling. I called up ORD and picked up the swaybar disconnect kit.

The kit comes with new longer bolts to attache the new bracket to the spring plate. Also pictured are the pins for the disconnect and a bracket to hold the bar out of the way when disconnected.

I already had new bushings ready to go...so installed them...the old ones were trashed.

So...new bushings in the ends and cleaned up the crud off he bar...gave it a coat of paint..

Here is the finished product...pixs of both sides.

Hooking the bar back up totally took the LTD outta the ride of the truck...now it is like an old truck again. LOL Nowhere as tight as the ride of my Volvo though.....

Here is a shot of the truck with 37's, 4 inch springs front and shackle flip rear...with my 8" camper.

Jim

 

[Metapoint]

Jimmer,

Can you elaborate on your driveshafts, I did re-read the whole thread before posting and really didn't get any solid detail other than a few posts of different people mentioning different lenghts. Thanks

 

[jimmer]

Jimmer,

Can you elaborate on your driveshafts, I did re-read the whole thread before posting and really didn't get any solid detail other than a few posts of different people mentioning different lenghts. Thanks

Just got back froma failed wheeling trip...so the long and the short of it is " lengthened the front and shortenend the rear...it was either 2 or 3 inches." Will have to look it up.

I have to go and find out now why under a load on a long grade...the engine bucks and shakes and loses power...enough so that it will die. Pull off road and it will fire right up.

Go aways and under load pulling camper jeep and trailer...it will do it again. thru town you can get on it and ride it hard...smokes like a train with plate full forward...no problems...but hill/load and on either tank.

Killed my wheeling trip this weekend.

 

[K204DR]

you have a clog in the fuel system thats not allowing good flow. either a plugged filter, or a plugged screen by the fuel pump. might be the overflow valve also but acts more like something clogged. been thru that a bunch with my alt fuel setup. might also be a fuel cap not letting the tank vent.

 

[jimmer]

you have a clog in the fuel system thats not allowing good flow. either a plugged filter, or a plugged screen by the fuel pump. might be the overflow valve also but acts more like something clogged. been thru that a bunch with my alt fuel setup. might also be a fuel cap not letting the tank vent.

I will go and change the filter. If I cut it in half...is there an obvious sign that it was/is clogged?

Either tank...same issue. both vented. Could mean the filter is clogged....no pressure gauge...so I could not see if that was/is the issue.

Orig lift pump...appx 180k. Figure same with the overflow...

Exhaust is same side as fuel lines...coud the fuel get too hot...like a gasser engine?

Thanks for the things to check. also noticed at the same time the oil press was low too....about 10psi on the gauge at idle. runs fine down the highway.

Jim

 

[K204DR]

you do know about the cleanable screen by the lift pump right? your first post in this thread has a pic of it, with the almost kinked hose running between it and the lift pump. think its a 17 wrench at the bottom to take it off. delete the fuel heater while you have it off as well. I don't think you can vaporlock diesel, but I could be wrong. I moved my lines to the other side of the frame on my truck though.

 

[jimmer]

you do know about the cleanable screen by the lift pump right? your first post in this thread has a pic of it, with the almost kinked hose running between it and the lift pump. think its a 17 wrench at the bottom to take it off. delete the fuel heater while you have it off as well. I don't think you can vaporlock diesel, but I could be wrong. I moved my lines to the other side of the frame on my truck though.

Screen was clean...changed fuel filter...primed the pump...then the damn prime button started leaking AND the fuel drain as well. Got new o rings for fuel prime button. Got it started and fuel leaks from the WIF drain. Won't stop now. Tried to find the wix filter with NO drain...of course no one had one and napa was closed. fuel that came out orf the filter was clean looking...no water in the drain...humm. Will have to wait till tomorrow to get a new filter and then go and drive the truck.

Fuel lines are run on the drivers side...but the transfer valve is still on the passenger side above the exhaust...

Freaking strange....

 

[MISPLACEDBIKER]

Getting geared up for a cummins swap in my 99 gmc. I to haul my slide in camper and my 51 willys m-38.