Cummins 4BT & Diesel Conversions Forums banner

HELP detuning a 6bt

1 reading
1K views 16 replies 10 participants last post by  char1355  
#1 ·
Image


Hey Guys, Im a noob here.

making this post to inquire about my 58 Chevy 3200 Apache 6BT Cummins swap.

Its an odd one. It is budget-related, but Im also a bit sentimental and so the plan reflects that.

I already have a reliable daily driver, so this project can have a few steps to it and I really like the sound and feel of an old muncie.

I recently got a 58 Chevy Apache with the optional Muncie SM420 4 speed and a 12 bolt gm rear someone had put in.

the l6 235 was absolutely worn out. How it was even running boggled my mind. You could shove quail eggs through the Rocker arms, they were so ovalled.
Image


I went on the marketplace and saw a screaming deal on a 5.9 Cummins 12v. only thing was it was in a mid 1990s tc200 school bus and I had to pull it.

So I sure as f**ck did

Image


completely covered in grease, oil, and dirt, my brother and I pulled home to apprehensive parental looks with the Allison at 545 still attached.

Image


It has 130k miles and is in great shape. Since it came out of a school bus, it had consistent heat cycles and decent maintenance.

Image


So far, I've got it all cleaned up and completely regasketed. (Just dont like leaks) It runs great and is untouched from the factory.

Image


My goal is a drivable, roughly period-correct-looking truck with the diesel and a manual.

Im not looking for huge power... yet. I want a truck that i can add stuff to as my life unfolds and I get access to stronger components.

I also really want to drive a 50's truck with a 6BT in it for a bit. Ride quality isn't my concern yet; reliability is more important, and I don't plan on going over 65 in it since I live in the sticks. for now...

The truck was originally a 1958 stepside

It looked all original, but the 235 engine was cast in '59, and I think they also put the 59 fleetside bed on it.

frame and cab vins match.

driveline from the rear up:

gm 12 bolt. I do not know the gearing but i don't really care because i want to swap in a 14 bolt 6 lug asap. Its a testing placeholder. Even detuned, I think I'm pushing its limits. Let me know if Im wrong.

The driveshaft is a two-piece setup with the carrier bearing. Thinking I'll freshen it up when I adjust the length

I fully rebuilt the SM420 and it is in fantastic shape. It was a factory option in 1/2 ton trucks, but was used up to 2 ton trucks. I hear they are pretty tough, maybe not cummins tough but tough non the less.

Image


Now I need to come up with a cheap way to adapt the sm420 to a 6bt that allows for some flexibility in future clutch/transmission options using what I have.

I bought a chevy v8 cast iron truck bell housing so i can fit the biggest gm clutch possible. I ordered a Sachs HD 12" clutch and HD pressure plate.

I got a little hung up on the flywheel, though as a 35lb gm one remachined would not run remotely right.

Cummins did make a Cummins to gm flywheel that mounted a 12" clutch and pressure plate for use on the grumman step vans but i could not find one for sale under $800 which is absolutely insane. I could buy a whole dodge flywheel/clutch for half that.

I looked into using a GM 427 marine flywheel and machining the BCD to match the Cummins crank but i also had a hard time locating one.

I gave this all a think for a while and remembered I have the SAE Cummins to Allison adapter with the good Denso starter and flex plate. I did some measuring and realized that a stock Cummins flywheel with the ring gear removed will nest right into the Allison flexplate with the ring in the right location and i can machine the adapter to the right thickness for my gm clutch geometry. with the ouside of the adapter holding roughly the same dimensions as the v8 bell housing pattern. Im going to machine the Cummins flywheel to match the gm pressure plate 6 bolt pattern.

Id love to know what you all think of this.

I dont have a lot of money, but I do have access to a lot of equipment on the rach and have some time between school to work on this. I would get a Dodge clutch and NV4500 or G56 if i could, but that simply isn't in the budget for now, and I want to see how the SM420 does with the 12v. I also have an SM465 on hand if the SM420 input shaft snaps. its a direct bult up option.

Image


So obviously a turned up or even stock 6bt is putting out enough torque to be constantly on the edge of grenading this setup. thats where I really need you guys help.

I want to DETUNE it, like as much as reasonably possible. Which i know is hilarious because every single video and post is on turning it up. Real annoying when you want info on the other direction lol.

Heres the engine we are working with

Cummins 6BTA
CPL 1261
SERIAL NO 44954107
BOSCH P-PUMP (P1700) TAG 370 04320

going off my research, being an industrial engine, it has slightly different stuff going for it than a truck engine

-forged rods
-smaller injectors
-different governor spring for lower, more continuous RPM.
-Holset WH1C turbo
-larger oil pan

Its rated at 190hp and 400lbft of torque


What can I turn this down to?

Im really hoping to get closer to the original l6 or a small block. I dont know if this is possible, but id like a driveable 130-150hp and 300- 350 lb-ft of torque.

Does anyone know if this is feasible with my setup?

Any pointers you've learned from experience in doing 6bt swaps?

Im thinking of using the factory gm v8 bell housing engine mounts and moving the cross member far back enough to run a mechanical fan and clutch. This will make a far better weight distribution and allow me to run my mechanical fan and fan clutch. Ill keep the single industrial mount up front of the engine and tie it into the frame rails with a new cross member. I'll use a radiator out of a 6.9 idi truck, which will allow me to keep the core support and that iconic x in front of the rad. Im thinking I'll cut out the firewall to the trans tunnel and make a panel that attaches from the inside so I
can remove part of the firewall for serviceability. I'll reinforce the whole thing to keep the cab rigid.

If you have any thoughts on this idea let me know.

Also I know this is a pretty unconventional swap, Im really just trying to make the best of what ive got and make a fun rough riding truck that has as much of its original charm as possible with a whopping diesel engine.

Long-term, I want to make it my daily, independent front suspension, 4 link rear, fully boxed frame, g56, 12v pushing a modest 375hp, but number one, be reliable. I live an hour from a small town so its gotta hold up and be serviceable almost anywhere. 4 wheel drive is nice, but im used to making 2wd work in most places and the simplicity in maintenance is fantastic.

Thanks for reading all that
 
#3 ·
Consider installing this 6bt engine without any performance modifications - I am having trouble following where you are headed on this - At one point you say "I want to DETUNE it" - and then you say "12v pushing a modest 375hp"...

Just assemble it with the stock school bus 6bt. If you don't drive it hard (i.e. Clutch dumps, burnouts, etc) it should get you to school and back. The gearing concerns me, you might find that the combination of RPM limiter, rear axle ratio and tire diameter limits you to a slower than 65 MPH. Use the following calculator to get an estimate of top speed - AND - you really do not want to have to drive with the engine on the rev limiter.


Russ
 
#4 ·
The same forged con rods are used in all the 6bt-4bt motors, pickups, vocational or stationary motors, nothing special about a 190hp bus motor as far as the rotating mass, piston bowl design and injector size, will be the main differences... it's been said the p-pumps have a couple of different governor weights to control the fueling rate between different motors, my 230hp pusher motor seems to fuel differently (slower) than my 95 160hp 12v motor, something I will look into since I'm planning on pulling to pull the motor and place into my 91.5 w250 build... imo your 190 should be left alone until you beef up the frame, it will be the weight, not the hp that needs to be addressed, your 58 1/2 ton has a very light frame compared to first gen dodge frames that the 6bt first appeared in back in 89, and should have a fully boxed or boxed front half frame plus a reinforced crossmember in place before placing the motor in service, just to put this in perspective, guys will box-reinforce these early gm trucks just using a 105hp 4bt... your build, your decision, just my 0.02, looking forward to seeing more of your build...
 
#7 ·
Initially my rig was a 4BT at the 200hp-400ft/lbs power range the truck was 8,000# unloaded at that time I was running the ford M5odr2 transmission which is a 1/2 ton truck trans
that mane consider a weak unit. It served well for me until I needed to move 5 trips towing trailers finally did it in with a 500 mile interstate run at 16,000# CGVW being the nail in it's coffin, with that being said IMHO it held up well pulling grades in OD for the most part and it did not fail I KILLED it asking too much from it. Your trans being that it was also used in medium duty trucks should hold up if you treat it right unless you really overload/over work it or get froggy and introduce shock loads, if you do that with a b series Cummins
there are very few drive trains that wont fail. The b series engines like to be driven smoothly with easy throttle and clutch work the immense torque that exists starting at idle
is truly a irresistible force just let it do what it does, I tend to "short shift" it until I'm in 3rd by then there is enough load on it to where it can start to really work and it pulls like a locomotive. Getting your gearing right is very important for the drivability in a b series as the useable power band is pretty narrow compared to what most engines have,
they are happiest when living between 1,500 and 2,000 your rig is light so you will have a couple hundred rpm below 1,500 and while they will run above 2,000 OK they really start to use fuel. I turn 2,000@70mph and on the highway every 150rpm beyond that costs me approx. 1.5-2 MPG...$.02
 
#9 ·
Initially my rig was a 4BT at the 200hp-400ft/lbs power range the truck was 8,000# unloaded at that time I was running the ford M5odr2 transmission which is a 1/2 ton truck trans
that mane consider a weak unit. It served well for me until I needed to move 5 trips towing trailers finally did it in with a 500 mile interstate run at 16,000# CGVW being the nail in it's coffin, with that being said IMHO it held up well pulling grades in OD for the most part and it did not fail I KILLED it asking too much from it. Your trans being that it was also used in medium duty trucks should hold up if you treat it right unless you really overload/over work it or get froggy and introduce shock loads, if you do that with a b series Cummins
there are very few drive trains that wont fail. The b series engines like to be driven smoothly with easy throttle and clutch work the immense torque that exists starting at idle
is truly a irresistible force just let it do what it does, I tend to "short shift" it until I'm in 3rd by then there is enough load on it to where it can start to really work and it pulls like a locomotive. Getting your gearing right is very important for the drivability in a b series as the useable power band is pretty narrow compared to what most engines have,
they are happiest when living between 1,500 and 2,000 your rig is light so you will have a couple hundred rpm below 1,500 and while they will run above 2,000 OK they really start to use fuel. I turn 2,000@70mph and on the highway every 150rpm beyond that costs me approx. 1.5-2 MPG...$.02
Very well said. I agree there is no need to de-tune, sensible operation is all that is necessary.
 
#8 ·
You need to consider a few things. First off, the 190 HP engine is mid line for the 6bt. The Dodge versions were mostly 160 HP and the truck models like yours went up to 230 HP. That was the most powerful road 6bt offered. Your transmission is OK but lacks an OD gear. Depending on your trucks rear axle gear, you may only reach 50-55 MPH at full throttle. You need an OD geared transmission like the NV4500 or NV5600. The stock GM bellhousing was only on the 4bt which came in Chevy vans. It isn't common but is available from Cummins. It is very expensive. The rare part is the flywheel. Most GM vans were automatics. Your engine probably came with an SAE flywheel housing. You could use that depending on which one you have. You gave an engine serial number so I could look that up. You'd just need a flywheel and clutch to go with it. There is a company that has a setup to mate a NV4500 to a SAE3 set up. Now, nothing is going to be cheap. Forget that idea unless you just luck onto something. Need to know what rear gear ratio you have. If your engine has 400 lb ft of torque then it is exactly the same as the 160 HP used in the Dodge. You're not going to turn it down. Forget that idea. Up yes but down no. Your big problem is going to be engine speed. Now you could add a gear splitter behind your transmission and have an OD unit. Those are a bit scarce too.
 
#10 ·
When Dodge 1st put the Cummings in their Pick-ups... we would see them in the shop... Bad Differentials, twisted off drive shafts, a few cracked frames.. It ain't the HP.. its the torque. Put a load on it and and give it the throttle... and if what you are pulling resists... the early Trucks would break shit.. If you are looking for show... Might be wonderful.. you start playing tough and it will break shit. If you change your mind... a 4bt is much more reasonable in terms of weight ( yep you'll have to reinforce the front suspension for a 6BT.. Then you better plan on good power steering up-date.. I have driven many front heavy trucks without... it ain't no fun.. ) If You are in WA. state area... I know where there is a 4bt total rebuild, my 1 cent worth
 
#11 ·
You bring up a very good point the weight of the 6BT it is double the weight of the existing engine and is gonna make for a real ugly front to rear weight distribution,
when building my '68 F-250 the 6BT's weight was for me a deal breaker as it is with the 4BT I'm still over 1,000# heavier than with the V8.
I'm very much OCD about weight distribution due to IMHO handling, drivability and safety issues that it brings to the table, many moons ago I owned a 1st generation AMC AMX
it was a fun fast and cool little mussel car but its short wheel base and nose heavy setup brought some truly UGLY traits the worst was it doing a 180* spin under heavy breaking.
IMHO a 6BT in a 1/2 ton truck is like a 4BT in a Wrangler or mini truck, it will NOT be your friend when something goes wrong or someone does something stupid in front of you,
it will be just the opposite and it will stab you in the back. Now plenty of people have swapped 4BT's into vehicles of that size and wheelbase but you could not pay me to do so...$.02
 
#12 ·
1986 Ford F150. The 4-cylinder 4bt replaced an inline 300 CID 6-cyliner engine. The shorter engine moved the engine center of gravity back, so I did not notice any sagging in the front end.

Disclaimer: I never drove the 300 CID engine on the road - it was so worn out - that it barely had the power to drive into the shop...

Russ
 
#13 ·
Russ I need to clarify the 1,000# increase on my front end is due to the crew cab and winch/bumper not the 4BT but it was the reason for not doing a 6BT which my truck would have been happiest with. Still a nose heavy vehicle is not your friend.
 
#15 ·
Image

My 1986 F150 has a reproduction front bumper (my guess is it is lighter than the stock bumper). The rear bumper is the stock bumper for the short step side bed. This bed is a 1952 Bell Telephone Systems service box. The braking is well balanced.

Picture taken about 4 years ago - The Lowell district of Bisbee, AZ.
Russ
 
#17 ·
One item you must consider is the 190 HP 6bt is not exactly the same as the one in the Dodge pickups. You note that even though the HP is up by 30 HP, the torque level is unchanged. There are some internal changes in the injection pumps. Just because both have a P7100 doesn't make them the same. Be interesting to see a power curve for both engines. And there was one model in the last year of the Dodge that got the really good P7100 with all kinds of potential. Those are kind of scarce. 400 lb ft of torque is not excessive but can break things if abused. Have to drive sensibly.